Tag Archives: tourism

Presidents’ Day

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Feb. 16 is Presidents’ Day, when schoolchildren and federal employees get a day off.  Since I am dependent on the latter for my research, that means it’s a day off for me, too.  I will probably spend it doing some administrivia and maybe, if I’m lucky, a little writing.  I fancy a walk out to see my favorite presidential memorial, but at the same time I don’t fancy having my face frozen off and it is wicked cold out there.

Last week I hosted my own holiday on Lincoln’s birthday, which is well-nigh a sacred day if you grow up in Illinois.  It seemed important to take special note of this year, since I am here in Washington and spending my days studying people who knew Lincoln and worked for him.  So he already felt as close as a deceased president might; add to that my visiting of some significant relics.  During lunch I popped up to the third floor to see the hat he wore on the night of his assassination; after the end of the workday I went to the museum that has two life masks and a very rare and special potrait, and rounded out the night by attending The Widow Lincoln at Ford’s Theatre. I’d never been there before, and it was an interesting play in part because, as the plot unfolds in the forty days following his death, he is absent from the stage, which makes the empty box more poignant, I think, than if I had just visited during normal touring hours.

Just forty-two days before his death, Lincoln had delivered his Second Inaugural Address, which I have recently encouraged my padawans at home to dig into in an effort to spend a little of Presidents’ day making themselves better citizens.  If you’d like to play along, read it here, or just review those fine closing words:

With malice toward none, with charity for all, with firmness in the right as God gives us to see the right, let us strive on to finish the work we are in, to bind up the nation’s wounds, to care for him who shall have borne the battle and for his widow and his orphan, to do all which may achieve and cherish a just and lasting peace among ourselves and with all nations.

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PC HSToday my group was taken on a big, intense, bordering-on grueling march through three od Istanbul’s greatest hits: the Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque, and Hagia Sophia.  Any one of them could (and probably should) command at least several hours; to do them ( and lunch, and the Basilica Cistern, just for good measure) in one day, during summer tourist season, is ambitious, to say the least.  We were somewhat rushed, as you might imagine; further, I had been most eager for one of the sites in which our time was particularly compressed.  This is the great Byzantine church, and later Ottoman mosque, Hagia Sophia.  Our guide took us through the building and kept to her script, allowing us only 15 minutes to explore on our own.  This was a little vexing, since I was so looking forward to time in this amazing building that I only knew through the drawings and photos that I show my sophomore class every year.   What saved the day was my foresight, a few weeks ago, to download some Byzantine liturgical music, so I plugged in and spent my 10 minutes not madly taking pictures, but taking in the church.  The music had a near-magical effect; the noise of the crowds was drowned out, and all the other people actually seemed to slow down and sort of fade away, like I was gifted with Matrix-like powers of perception.  It was really quite moving, to see the building with something like the soundtrack it was designed to house.  Impressive how digital media and earbuds enlivened and enriched the best 10 minutes I could have spent in that sixth-century cathedral.

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